Text by Jessica Ye (Jessica Yap) | Photography by Felly Loi
Lie Sang Bong is a name that has become synonymous with the elevation of South Korean fashion to international prominence.
He has dressed his country’s first lady, collaborated with leading Korean brands such as LG and Samsung, and built an unmistakable design language: architectural in approach, yet imbued with feminine restraint. His creations are never ostentatious. They speak in a grounded, relatable voice while retaining a quiet edge of innovation through material choice and silhouette. The effect is sublime, a controlled yet creative elegance that defines his work.
In person, Lie Sang Bong presents a striking image. Dressed in a stark black suit accented with silver chains and a white shirt with folded collar, he could appear intimidating, as many top designers do. But this impression dissolves quickly. He laughs freely, shares anecdotes with enthusiasm, and speaks passionately about his journey as a designer and the evolution of his brand. His warmth and optimism make his universe instantly approachable, even when discussing complex topics like couture or the inauguration of the Asian Couture Federation, of which he is a founding member.
Our interview took place the day before his show at FIDé Fashion Weeks 2013, yet he was eager to reveal his world, from the inspiration behind his collections to his perspective on the growth of Asian couture. His openness and assured stance only reinforce his position as a true innovator, a designer whose vision continues to shape the future of fashion in Korea and beyond.
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We are thrilled to share this conversation with the man himself, inviting readers into the extraordinary universe of Lie Sang Bong.
You have always been dubbed as ‘The Korean McQueen’ as well as the ‘Alexander McQueen of Seoul’ due to your strong inclination to avant garde, as well as a very innovative and outstanding style that somehow still find its way back to your Korean roots. What are your views on this nickname?
LIE SANGBONG: This nickname was actually given to me by an editor in my interview with The British Telegraph. At first, I found this nickname very odd, but ever since Alexander McQueen has passed on, this nickname reminds me of him and serve as a tribute of some sort.
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How relevant is this nickname then, to relate to both you and the late McQueen, in terms of works?
LIE SANGBONG: As a designer, I go through my different phases and styles, it was at this particular time when I was working on a more architectural style with stronger cuts, and I guess that is when people saw the similarity between my works and the late McQueen’s.
In fact, there was this one time many years back in Korea, even before I started doing any shows in Paris. I designed a hat with a bird in it and showed it in my show in Korea. Two months later, it happens that Alexander McQueen came up with a very similar design. It was more of a coincidence, because Alexander McQueen has never seen my show before. So it was then, a Korean writer also gave me this nickname.
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In essence, what is the fashion to you?
LIE SANGBONG: Fashion to me is a destiny and where my passion is. It can be deemed as another part of me, even if sometimes, it does become a baggage for me. But I love fashion nonetheless.
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How would you describe Haute Couture and its relation to the fashion industry?
LIE SANGBONG: I think that Haute Couture and Pret-a-porter is pretty much the same thing. They are both components that will last forever. So to me, I see the same value in either pieces from Haute Couture and Pret-A-Porter.
The main things that set them apart is Haute Couture is highly valued in terms of creativity while the mass-produced Pret-A-Porter equates to commercial revenues.
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Where would be your first point of inspiration to look at when conceiving ideas for a collection?
LIE SANGBONG: Every senses and whatever that comes to my mind as well as whatever that I see, hear, touch and feel can become inspirations for my collection.
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Which fabrics and shapes best express the essence of your style?
I use a huge variety of fabrics and textiles for my collection. My favourites would be wool and cotton.
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Tell us more about your latest collection.
LIE SANGBONG: I will be utilizing the Korean traditional flower, Mugunghwa, which is the Rose of Sharon. The flower is interpreted in a modern way for my collection so as to reach out to the younger generation. All the pieces that you will be seeing on the runway are my Couture pieces because Couture is something very important for me. So from all of them, about 10 would be long dresses, while the other half of the collection are focused on more daily pieces.
As a fashion designer in this new age, where the world as well as technology is moving at such a rapid rate, almost like lightning, the myriad of fabric materials available in accessible form, is one of the many things that raise new possibilities and breakthroughs for your designs, and inherently, also amplify competition amongst fellow designers. How do you think that has affected you so far, and what opinions do you have on this?
LIE SANGBONG: These new mediums are usually very inspirational for me and I think with modern technology, I can create more styles… basically more possibilities with fabrics.
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How do you feel towards the inauguration of the Asian Couture Federation, and why is it significant to you as an Asian Designer?
LIE SANGBONG: In the past, the market in Europe was a lot bigger. But now with the boom of the Asian market, the fashion market in Asia particularly has been expanding tremendously. So as an Asian designer, I see loads of potential in the Asian Couture Federation.
Considering that you have dressed and designed for so many celebrities, like Lady Gaga, being the most prominable one. Others include Zhang Ziyi, Beth Ditto, Rihanna and the list goes on. How do you feel when you see your creations on them? What are your first thoughts?
LIE SANGBONG: When I see these celebrities wearing my clothes, it becomes a whole, new creation altogether. The way they style it with their own individual flair, as well as the way they carry themselves in the clothes, are eye openers. And I think that is super refreshing.
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What would a rest day be like for you?
Whenever I can take a break from work, I would basically travel or just do some simple sports to unwind.
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More from LIE SANG BONG can be found at www.liesangbong.com/
